FAQ
Questions About Tile Installation
Before the Work Starts
Do I need to remove my old tile before you arrive?
No. Demolition is part of what we assess during the estimate walkthrough. In many cases we handle tile removal ourselves, and the cost is included in the written estimate. If you have already removed the tile, let us know — it can affect the substrate condition we find underneath and may change the prep work needed.
How do you handle uneven or damaged subfloors?
Tile requires a flat, structurally sound substrate. If we find flex, soft spots, or significant unevenness during the walkthrough, we will note it in the estimate and explain what needs to happen before tile installation. This may involve sistering joists, adding cement board, or applying a self-leveling compound. We do not tile over a compromised floor.
Do I need to supply the tile, or do you handle materials?
Either way works. Some homeowners prefer to select and purchase their own tile — we provide the square footage calculation and overage recommendation so you order the right amount. Others prefer us to source materials directly. We discuss this during the estimate and build the quote accordingly. Either approach, we verify the tile quantity before scheduling the install date.
During Installation
How long does a typical tile installation take?
A standard kitchen backsplash typically takes one to two days. A bathroom floor and shower combination runs two to four days depending on the size and whether waterproofing membrane needs cure time. Large-format floor tile in a main living area can take several days. We give a project-specific timeline in the written estimate, not a generic range.
Can the bathroom or kitchen be used while work is in progress?
Generally no, not the specific area being tiled. Mortar needs time to cure before the surface can bear weight or water. For shower installations, we typically ask for 24 to 48 hours after grouting before any water contact. We will walk through the access and timing details with you before the job starts so you can plan accordingly.
What is the difference between sanded and unsanded grout, and which do you use?
Sanded grout contains fine sand aggregate and is used for joints wider than 1/8 inch. Unsanded grout is smoother and is used for narrow joints, polished stone, and glass tile where sanded grout could scratch the surface. We select the appropriate grout type for each installation based on the tile material and the joint width specified in the layout plan. The grout color is chosen with you during the planning phase.
After the Work
Do you seal the grout after installation?
Yes, sealing is included in our process for most installations. Grout is porous and will absorb stains without a sealer. We apply a penetrating grout sealer after the grout has fully cured. In wet areas like showers, we use a sealer rated for continuous moisture exposure. We also advise on re-sealing frequency depending on the grout type and the area's use.
What causes grout to crack, and how do you prevent it?
Grout cracks most often from substrate movement, insufficient mortar coverage behind the tile, or using the wrong mortar for large-format tile. We address all three: we verify substrate stability before setting, use back-buttering technique on tiles larger than 15 inches, and select mortar with the right flexibility rating for the tile size and surface type. Expansion joints at walls and transitions are also part of the installation, not an afterthought.